Berlin Marathon: Norfolk Ten-Miler

Swallows shocked at my relentless ten-miler

Up at 7am after a sticky and fitful Saturday night's sleep for a long run from North Creake to Holkham Hall and back. It was so hot and sunny as I set off full of banana and SIS electrolyte that I seriously worried I might end up sunburnt even at that time in the morning. 

This was a straight and steady run with the skylarks and yellowhammers for company. The first mile was steeper than anyone has a right to expect in Norfolk before undulating into the Holkham estate, over the cattle grids, under the Triumphal Arch and arrow-straight past the obelisk to the lovely lake of intimidating Greylag and Canada geese parading their goslings. 

The route passed in front of the handsome house and out towards Lady Anne's Drive to the halfway point. Then it was back up the long climb to the obelisk and steadily, relentlessly under the arch, the swathes of lush greenery in either side barely shading me from the strong sunshine. 

I took it fairly easy. It was too hot and rolling to push it too hard and I was enjoying the air and the swifts screaming overhead. 

I took the belt with me and finished both mini bottles of electrolyte en route then enjoyed a good old sweat-drenched stretch on the North Creake village green. I necked a protein shake before feasting on a no-holds-barred brunch prepared by Uncle Andy. 

I topped that up on the way back to London with a carvery lunch at The Swan in Hilborough. The Adnam's East Coast IPA was as refreshingly lively as ever. 

This was also a reasonably fond farewell to the orange Asics gel-cumulus 15 trainers. Both left and right had split just over the sole on both sides. I paid £65 for them in a sale in November and I'm surprised they've haven't lasted a bit longer. I reckon I've got around 150 miles out of them. I never really warmed to them, either; they always felt a bit big and garish. 

But we'll always have Hackney. 

The Best 10km Running Route in London

No doubt about it, if there was an award for the best 10k river route in Britain this would win it.

Start at Hammersmith Bridge. Plenty of bike stands next to the houseboats near The Rutland Arms if you need to cycle there.

Furnivall Gardens and Hammersmith Bridge

Run west with the river on your left, past rose-dappled Furnivall Gardens on your right then down the little passageway in front of the tiny and tempting Dove pub, the legendary birthplace of Rule Britannia. Emerge past William Morris's wisteria-dappled old house and Latymer Prep School and jog on towards the tiny crow's nest where I'm going to have my imaginary 50th birthday party.

That's Linden House, home to the London Corinthians boat club, on the right, there. It hosted BBC Breakfast News parties in the past, in the carefree days before they sent everyone packing to Salford. Salford!

Your route winds under a building outcrop then past the Old Ship pub on your right, home of Young's bitters, guest ales, pleasant Sunday lunches and occasional meetings of the ex-BBC hacks refreshments club.

Soon enough you cut a few yards inland to run past the front of a terrace of riverside cottages on your left. A couple of blue plaques reveal that a humourist you've never heard of used to live in one of them.

Ponder that as you jog west past some of the finest riverfront houses in London. This time of year House Martins light up the sky on their way to and from their nests under the eaves. Imagine how much you'd have to earn to buy one of these mansions, complete with a private Thames-side garden across the road, and run away from the thought as you head left back to the river and Chiswick Pier.

There's a lifeboat station just ahead in case you find yourself in the Thames after mulling over those house prices, and a pizza restaurant with a fabulous conservatory that I've often run past but never gone in. One day.

A few metres later the houses run out and you're jogging on a leafy footpath with Chiswick Bandstand looming. Never seen a band on it. A good Boat Race landmark, though. And your next landmark is a boathouse with its sloping launch strip. Careful, here - those eight-man boats emerge head-high on your right from nowhere.

Up a small flight of concrete steps then avoid Barnes Bridge and turn right to run parallel to the railway embankment on your left towards the extra-posh Chiswick Racquets Club on your right. I jogged past an expensively-dressed woman on her way to the tennis courts smoking a fag this morning. What's she thinking?

First on the left takes you onto a single carriageway under a railway bridge. You may have to dodge some impatient 4x4s here before returning to the verge heading towards the Thames Tradesman's boat club. Nip through their car park and you're back on the riverbank.

This is the nicest stretch of the whole route. It's like running through a country meadow with the river on your left and fragrant, waist-high wild flowers on your right. You'll wish the path never ends but it does, at another boat house at the foot of majestic Chiswick Bridge. This is the base of the elite Tideway Scullers. Current members include Alan Campbell, the Ulsterman who won the silver medal in the men's single sculls at the World Rowing Cup at Eton Dorney this weekend. Here he is on his row of honour:

Jog up the steps of the bridge and cross the river. Jog down again on you're on your way back. That's The Ship on your right, there, another good place for an al fresco Sunday lunch overlooking the swarms of afternoon rowers. And that's the big old Budweiser brewery next to the cobbles. Horrible beer but keeps a lot of people in work. Don't knock it.

More cobbles test the ankles and knees until you get to The White Hart. Yet another good place to sit under a parasol with a pint of Young's and watch the world go by. Not today, though. On you go along the muddy bit under Barnes Bridge and on to the pavement. Fabulously big views of the sweeping bend of the river, here. Look out for more House Martins gathering mud for their nests on the edge.

The Thames at Barnes

Before you know it you're back on the trail, the river hidden by the trees on your left, the air full of birdsong from the Leg of Mutton nature reserve on your right. Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Great Tit, Willow Warbler - they're all fighting to be heard but not seen. Enjoy the summer warblers while you dodge the puddles - it's nearly always a bit damp on this stretch.

The lush scenery stays the same until you reach Westminster School boat club on the right. The only other landmark is a balloon-strewn shrine to some poor soul who presumably didn't make it out of the river one day.

A couple of strides letter and the glorious green and gold Hammersmith Bridge looms large in front of you again. Jog over, being prepared to slow down for fellow runners and pedestrians on the narrow, rickety walkway, and you've nearly made it. Officially you need to jog past the Dove again to make it 10k. Or you could sack it off and pop in the Blue Anchor for one instead.

You've earned it.

Whistling Wigeon On Cley Marshes

Eerily bright, warm and sunny at Cley Marshes this morning - it's the mid-November that feels like early September.

The highlights: hundreds of whistling Wigeon; vast flocks of Golden Plover looking like blown and sun-dappled leaves; two female and one male Marsh Harrier spooking hundreds of Lapwing; a vagrant Cattle Egret - feathers so white you could see it with the naked eye from the visitor centre half a mile away; flying Shoveler; Teal and Mallard waddling around; hidden Cetti's warbler and Bearded Tit calling from the reeds.

It was warm enough for a least three Common Darter dragonflies to take to the wing to add to the three Red Admiral butterflies we saw in Wells Wood yesterday.

And we saw a Barn Owl near Field Dalling at 9.10am on the way - the first we've clocked for a while in Norfolk.

Coco Chanel Blamed For Drabness Of British Birds Compared To South African Equivalents

Southern Double-Collared Sunbird

Why do so many birds in South Africa look exactly the same as British birds but with more vibrant colouring?

Convergent evolution? The theory that explains how hummingbirds look like very similar to sunbirds - but the hummers hang out in the Americas and belong to the same family as swifts while the sunny guys are found in Africa and Asia and belong to the same family as most perching birds.

Possible. But not as convincing as my ground-breaking new theory honed during a two-week return drive from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth: the Creators' Colouring Book Principle.

In the Beginning, Grand Fauna Designers of each continent were handed the same colouring book template by the Creator In Chief and given free hand to do whatever they liked. It just so happened that we got a celestial Coco Chanel while Africa got Vivienne Westwood.

So South Africa has the Red-nobbed Coot: virtually identical to the familiar "bald-as-a" bird seen everywhere in Britain - but with two comedy red knobs on top of its head.

Cape Sparrow: our very own House Sparrow wearing a fetching bandit's mask.

Red-winged Starling: like our common or garden blackbird with go-faster splashes of red on its wings.

Black African Oystercatcher: the black-and-white bird of British coasts given a stylish all-black respray with stand-out red bill and legs. (But while ours are thriving, the African version is in trouble.)

Speckled Mousebird: to our Long-tailed Tit - "That's not a tail; now that's a tail."

Olive-breasted Thrush: forget the brown dots on a brown breast with brown wings on our Song Thrush - how about a splash of dazzling orange on autumnal green and slate grey?

Cape Longclaw: no to the streaky dark brown stripes and streaky light brown heads of our pipits - let's go for a bright orange throat set-off with a bold black border.

And the Cape Weaver: a bright, canary-yellow alternative to our black, speckly starlings - and these boys weave their own nests on the end of palm tree leaves, too.

I'm not sure Richard Dawkins would agree and it needs a bit of work. Maybe a research grant from the Mid-West University of Creationism. But what do you think?

The West London Connection With The National Bird of Latvia

The bird I was most hoping to see on our long weekend in Latvia was the White Stork.

We were there for Vince and Daiga's wedding. Vince, who's no bird watcher, had reliably informed us that the Storks would still be around in August.

They're like our Swallows to the Latvians. Their arrival from Africa in the spring signals the end of the bitterly cold Baltic winter and the start of longer and warmer days. People tempt them into their villages, farms and gardens by erecting columns with wide platforms at the top - ready-made for the welcome visitors to build their massive nests out of piles of sticks.

And the birds don't disappoint. They seem to like being near people and happily raise their young very close to farms and houses - very often on the top of pylons. Daiga told us that many people thought it was very lucky to have one nesting close by.

We got our first glimpse of them on the two-hour bus ride from Riga to Talsi. The first one was only ten minutes from the centre of the capital - strutting around in a bit of greenery near a shopping centre.

And as the packed bus sped along the arrow-straight road lined with mile after mile of pine and silver birch trees, the Stork numbers kept on rising.

So you'd think they'd be a shoo-in to be the nation's national bird. But bizarrely, they're not.

That honour goes to the slender, graceful, yet comparatively humble White Wagtail - another summer visitor virtually identical to the Pied Wagtail familiar to everyone who's ever been to a playground or shopping centre in England.

The national bird of Latvia

I snapped this young one in the fabulous Laumu Dabas country park near Talsi where the wedding celebrations took place. It was chosen as the national bird in 1960 by the International Bird Protection Council. Fair enough - it's  a nice bird. Not as striking as the bandit-masked Red Backed Shrike or the charismatic Spotted Flycatcher, which were both showing well at the weekend, but very cheerful and eye-catching nonetheless.

Young Spotted Flycatcher. Old wooden Tortoise.

And when it calls it sounds like it's shouting, "Chiswick, Chiswick", over and over again. A little bit of West London in the bright and sunny heart of Latvia.

More Best Norfolk Pubs And Restaurants Reviewed And Rated With Birds

Back to the Garden

 Back To The Garden, Fakenham Road, Letheringsett

Bird Equivalent: Swallow - summer not complete without a visit.

Overview: On the main road from Fakenham to Holt, this used to a be a fabulous farm shop selling the very best local produce around. It still is, but now it's added a stunning, Mediterranean-style garden to its barn-conversion restaurant. A delicious lunchtime menu served amidst the bees buzzing on the lavender. Stock up on the way out with Brays pork pies and Wiveton strawberries for tea.

Food Highlight: Three succulent, Norfolk-pork and leek sausages and herby mash served with a giant bowl of fresh vegetables grown in their very own market garden. 

Beer: The shop sells a wide selection of local, bottled ales but the restaurant limits the choice to a stout from Yetman's up the road in Holt and  a couple of beers from the St Peter's brewery - those ones in the antique-style bottles, which are fine but controversially from across the border in Suffolk.

Bottom Line: Under £40 for four lunches with drinks.

The Lodge, Norwich Road, North Tuddenham

Bird Equivalent: Yellowhammer - an easy-to-overlook rural treat.

Overview: The first restaurant we've visited as a result of a recommendation on Twitter. We arrived at this stylishly-modernised village inn just off the A47 at 9pm last Friday night - and amazingly we were the only people there. Unexpected James Bond memorabilia on the walls, comfy chairs, Eighties songs playing and a warm welcome from the man in charge who told us it had been much busier earlier on.

Food Highlight: The perfectly cooked medium-well-done ribeye steak came with a giant mushroom and big, fat chips; the burgers were plump; the pollock was fresh and fragrant.

Beer: The last pint of Beeston's Worth The Wait golden ale lived up to its name after a three-hour drive and after that the new barrel of Adnam's Bitter was up to its usual reliable mark.

Bottom Line: £56.95 for four main courses with the drinks.



The Kings Head, Letheringsett

Bird Equivalent: A Pheasant chick - irresistible now and getting bigger and better all the time.

Overview: A fine-looking manor house-style building set just off the the main road from Thetford to Holt with a gravelly car park hidden by a big children's playground to the side of a generous outdoor seating area. It used to be a sticky-carpeted beer-and-burgers family pub but it's been taken over by the Kiwi Inns chain and upgraded into a posh gastro pub with bookshelves around the tables and very friendly and efficient staff.

Food Highlight: Melt-in-the-mouth beer-battered haddock and thick-cut chips, a huge crab salad and a very juicy ribeye steak. Brownies, parfait, panacotta and Eton Mess desserts at £6 a pop.

Beer: The ubiquitous Adnam's bitter from Suffolk - reliable but it would be nice to see a wider local selection.

Bottom Line: £100 gets you four main courses, desserts, three pints, two large bottles of water, a large glass of Chilean sauvignon blanc (on the pricey side at £6.55) and a coke.

The Sound Of A Norfolk Nightjar Churring At 10pm On Saturday Night

Sunset at Salthouse Heath in North Norfolk - a banker Nightjar site in July - was at 9.10pm and looked fabulous. But that still meant a 50-minute wait until that unmistakeable churring piped up from nowhere. It was there and gone within five minutes.

They're very difficult to see because they don't wake up until it goes dark.  But just listen to that unnatural, natural sound.

The RSPB estimate there are 3,400 males in the whole of Britain during the summer, most of them in the east and south east of England. It's very rare to hear more than two in a territory and they all winter in  sub-Saharan Africa.

Joseph and I passed the waiting time with an old-time Norfolk countryman and his wife. He'd spent his life digging lugworms out of Stiffkey marsh in all weathers for sea-fishing, shooting and hunting. He was now using a walking stick and struggling with his spinal discs. He wandered off just before the Nightjar started calling.

We made it back to the cottage in time for the end of Miss Marple.

A Cuckoo Calling In The Distance At Wicken Fen

It's very faint and it only lasts eight seconds but it's the sound of summer at the fabulous National Trust national nature reserve in Cambridgeshire.

And if that's the sound then the carpets of marsh orchids among the reeds are the unmistakeable sight at this time of year. We strolled round the two-and-quarter-mile Nature Trail of wide droves and lush green paths that circle the undrained Sedge Fen. The warblers were out in force but the blustery winds meant the reserve's famous dragonflies were keeping a low profile.

First stop, after a sausage sandwich and a refreshing bottle of Boathouse Bitter from the City of Cambridge Brewery in the cafe, was the excellent visitor centre. One of the wardens was happily holding a very calm Sparrowhawk. With eyes and a bill like that no wonder it's feared throughout the warbler world. As soon as it was released it was straight back into hunter mode.

An insect hunter had also made itself at home in one of the other man-made structures. This Swallow seemed completely unperturbed by the stream of visitors clattering in and out of the Roger Clarke hide, repeatedly dodging the binoculars and telescopes to fly to and from its nest in one of the dark corners. There was no sight nor sound of chicks so presumably she's waiting for eggs to hatch.

Among the other highlights of the walk was this magnificent caterpillar found on the boardwalk by low-level Grace. We had no idea what it was at the time but it didn't take long for Professor Google to reveal that it's the larva of the Drinker Moth - which UK Moths say is a fairly common species in southern England and will take to the wing in July and August.

We'll look out for it.

A 20-Mile North Norfolk Bird And Pub Crawl From Hunstanton To Stiffkey

View Hunstanton-Stiffkey in a larger map

Tried and tested on Saturday.
Required: A designated driver or a Coasthopper bus timetable.
Preferable: Fully Ventilated Drinking Trousers

Start: Hunstanton Beach

Begin the day with a stroll along the beach to look for nesting Fulmars. They're easy to find as soon as you reach the strikingly cream and orange cliffs. They're an awesome, big-nosed sight as they glide to and from the cliff face, their legs often dangling comically as they come in to land.


First Pub: The Ancient Mariner, Old Hunstanton

Nothing to fear here. The suitably-named Camra Beer Guide entrant is about a mile east along the beach from the Fulmars. Apart from the Adnams Suffolk Bitter, the hotel pub's best feature is the decked and lawned beer garden which gives great views of the windsurfers on the Wash.


Second Pub: The Lighthouse Inn, Thornham
A great patio garden with distant sea views to enjoy with the Wherry and guest ales is the highlight of this place a few miles along the coast road. Rated with slightly more detail on this earlier posting.

Next Bird Stop: RSPB Titchwell Marsh

Spotted Redshank at Titchwell

A five-star reserve with a high chance of spotting some of the most iconic Norfolk birds: Marsh Harrier, Avocet, Bearded Tit, Bittern and all the wetland specialities. A fabulous new hide half-way along the 1km path to the beach takes you right into the heart of the lagoons.



Third Pub: The Jolly Sailors, Brancaster

Jolly as sailors in Brancaster

Another short drive is rewarded with a refreshing pint of Brancaster Bitter and/or Oystercatcher brewed on the premises. It's got a spacious, grassy, swallow-blessed beer garden and a play area which attracts a nicely mixed crowd of rugby-types in pink weekend shirts and Jeremy Kyle-style parents urging Ryan and Kianna to "put it down, NOW!"

Fourth Pub: The White Horse, Brancaster Staithe
A couple of miles further east on the left is this posher pub with rooms. The bar serves Woodforde's Wherry and Adnams but the best bit is the terrace at the back with sensational views over the marshes to the distant sea, complete with Little Egrets, Redshanks and Oystercatchers.
The food is also excellent and very modern-British - my battered fish came with nine thick-cut chips stacked in a Jenga-style tower on the plate. Novel.

Time to press onwards to Wells-next-the-Sea but if you can't wait six more miles try the Victoria at Holkham on the way. It's a lovely hotel which recently tied itself to Adnams, so you know exactly what you'll be drinking. Nip into the Holkham Hall grounds up the hill to enjoy the House Martins, Swifts and Swallows hunting over the lake.

Next Stop: The Albatros, Wells

Big sky from the deck of the Albatros on Saturday

Not a pub but a moored, Dutch sailing boat with an S mysteriously missing from its name and very steep wooden steps down to a galley serving Woodforde's Wherry and Nelson's Revenge straight out of the barrel. Make it back up the stairs without spilling it and enjoy the view across the marshes with the option of a wide range of pancakes to soak it all up. Spinach, boiled egg and cheese is among the tastier options for £8. Standard lemon and sugar is half that.

At this point I recommend a detour to the De-Lish deli across the road on Staithe Street. Stock up on some of the tastiest cured meats and spiced fruits and chocolates this side of Ibiza.

Final Stop: The Red Lion, Stiffkey

A few miles further east and another difficult-to-drive-past landmark on the coast road. More Woodforde's choices and a cosy patio garden between the pub and the newish rooms for holiday rent. Very good value food if you fancy it.

And now you'd better call it day and head home for a well-earned snooze. Don't forget your binoculars.

Birding In The London Rain

I think I actually prefer going to the London Wetland Centre in the rain on summer weekends.

It's a guaranteed cheerful-banker whatever the weather but it's usually packed with young families enjoying picnics on sunny Sundays.

Swift

Nothing wrong with that, of course - we've been going with our two for years - but sometimes you just want to wander from hide to hide in a bit of peace and quiet and concentrate on the wildlife.

On Sunday I felt like I was the only person there. It rained steadily all afternoon - from the minute I left the house for the 15-minute cycle ride until the minute I got back looking like one of the Water Vole specialities - but all that did was keep the crowds away and dampen the noise of the Heathrow jets overhead.

Little Grebe

The whole place was green and glistening: it was invigorating to puddle past the mooching captive birds in the World Wetlands exhibits then along the summer route through the network of ponds, meadows and reedbeds in the Wildside part of the reserve.

Empty hides meant I could faff about trying and failing to get a decent photo of one of the dozens of F1-quick Swifts without disturbing anyone.

Then a soggy amble to the opposite end of the reserve gave me a chance for a solo sit to watch and snap the Sand Martins flying to and from their nests in the purpose-built sandbank: Sand Martins raising their young across the river from Craven Cottage - fantashtic, as Fulham's new Dutch manager Martin Jol might say.

Sand Martin

And all the time you're surrounded by dripping Grey Herons, Mallards, Parakeets, gulls, Lapwings, grebes, Moorhens, Coots and House Martins with plenty of time to hone in on the rarer visitors - a Green Sandpiper was among the highlights on Sunday.

The main downside of the rain was the lack of decent insects on the wing. The place is usually teeming with dragonflies and butterflies when the sun's out in June.

But there's always next weekend.

The Best Pubs and Restaurants in Norfolk: Reviewed And Rated With Birds

Poppies near Roydon Common

The Bridge Inn, Acle Bridge, Acle

Bird Equivalent: Sedge Warbler. An unspectacular but lively summer treat.
Overview: Large, traditional, family-friendly, riverside pub on the main road from the Broads to the coast.
Food Highlight: Excellent £8.95 ham salad featuring generous helpings of potato salad, pasta salad and  hand-carved glazed ham.
Beer: Woodforde's Wherry and Adnams Lighthouse - both well kept.
Service: Cold but efficient.
Bottom Line: £45.95 for four main courses and a round of drinks.

The Lifeboat Inn, Ship Lane, Thornham

Bird Equivalent: Avocet. An uplifting sight on the Norfolk coast.
Overview: Large, rambling village pub/hotel just off the main coastal road with a great outdoor patio garden and distant views of the sea.
Food Highlight: Reasonable bacon & cheese burgers with average chips and a little punnet of relish.
Beer: Woodforde's Wherry and guest ales
Service: Quick and friendly.
Bottom Line: £45.60 for four main courses and a couple of rounds of drinks.

The Kings Head, High Street, Holt

Bird Equivalent: Marsh Harrier. Soaring imperiously above all it surveys.
Overview: One of our favourite pubs. Great food and a great range of well-kept beer guaranteed in the centre of the bustling Georgian town.
Food Highlight: We sat in the lovely new conservatory and ate a deliciously well-done T-bone steak with a jacket potato, salad and onion rings.
Beer: Wherry to start then a bottle of Pinot Grigio.
Service: Not great on the night - it was only 7pm but they'd ran out of chicken and after a long wait chips were presented in a tiny metal basket instead of the ordered baked potato; spud delay resulted.
Bottom Line: £60.40 for two including the booze, a bottle of fizzy water and a latte.

The Crown Inn, East Rudham

Bird Equivalent: Great Crested Grebe. Serving freshly caught fish as a speciality.
Overview: Newly-modernised, chain-owned gastro pub in a village on the main road from Fakenham to Kings Lynn.
Food Highlight: An intricately and deliciously-cooked pollock which had to be unwrapped from its grease-proof paper jacket, served with biriani rice.
Service: Friendly, quick and efficient.
Beer: Adnams Bitter well kept.
Bottom Line: £23.45 for the fish, two pints and a coffee.

Chai-Yo, High Street, Sheringham

Bird Equivalent: Goldfinch. A colourful taste of the exotic amid the ordinary.
Overview: Traditional suburban Thai restaurant in the heart of the traditional seaside town.
Food Highlight: The sort of fresh, crisp, spicy food everyone has come to expect.
Service: Very friendly and efficient.
Wine: Nicely chilled bottle of Pinot Grigio.
Bottom Line: £71.55 for four starters, four main courses and the wine.

Taste of India, Holt

Bird Equivalent: Sandwich Tern. Deep breath, dive in, enjoy.
Overview: Another firm favourite, especially with the kids - traditional Indian food in a nicely modernised, cosy and very busy restaurant. Booking essential.
Food Highlight: The usual gravy-rich masalas, bhunas and tandooris and those frozen desserts that come in lemon peel and coconut shells.
Service: Clinically efficient.
Beer: Kingfisher lager on tap.
Bottom Line: £66.85 (including tip) for four starters and main courses with all the trimmings and a couple of beers.

The Fur and Feather Inn, Slad Lane, Woodbastwick

Bird Equivalent: Not a bird but a Swallowtail butterfly - a wonderful and exclusive Norfolk speciality.
Overview: Not just the best pub in Norfolk but probably the best pub in Britain. A classic thatched roof building in a picture-postcard Broads village. It serves every Woodforde's beer straight out of the barrel from the brewery next door.
Food Highlight: The beers
Service: You might have to wait patiently to get served at the bar but it's worth it.
Beer: Wherry, Admiral's Reserve, Nelson's Revenge, Norfolk Nog, Headcracker, Sundew, seasonal specials.
Bottom Line: worth every penny to sample the ales while Swallows swoop over the beer garden pond.

Three generations taking refreshments at the unrivalled Fur and Feather Inn