Showing posts with label pubs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pubs. Show all posts

Sunday, 23 June 2013

The Best 10km Running Route in London




No doubt about it, if there was an award for the best 10k river route in Britain this would win it.

Start at Hammersmith Bridge. Plenty of bike stands next to the houseboats near The Rutland Arms if you need to cycle there.

Furnivall Gardens and Hammersmith Bridge
Run west with the river on your left, past rose-dappled Furnivall Gardens on your right then down the little passageway in front of the tiny and tempting Dove pub, the legendary birthplace of Rule Britannia. Emerge past William Morris's wisteria-dappled old house and Latymer Prep School and jog on towards the tiny crow's nest where I'm going to have my imaginary 50th birthday party.


That's Linden House, home to the London Corinthians boat club, on the right, there. It hosted BBC Breakfast News parties in the past, in the carefree days before they sent everyone packing to Salford. Salford!

Your route winds under a building outcrop then past the Old Ship pub on your right, home of Young's bitters, guest ales, pleasant Sunday lunches and occasional meetings of the ex-BBC hacks refreshments club.

Soon enough you cut a few yards inland to run past the front of a terrace of riverside cottages on your left. A couple of blue plaques reveal that a humourist you've never heard of used to live in one of them.

Ponder that as you jog west past some of the finest riverfront houses in London. This time of year House Martins light up the sky on their way to and from their nests under the eaves. Imagine how much you'd have to earn to buy one of these mansions, complete with a private Thames-side garden across the road, and run away from the thought as you head left back to the river and Chiswick Pier.

There's a lifeboat station just ahead in case you find yourself in the Thames after mulling over those house prices, and a pizza restaurant with a fabulous conservatory that I've often run past but never gone in. One day.

A few metres later the houses run out and you're jogging on a leafy footpath with Chiswick Bandstand looming. Never seen a band on it. A good Boat Race landmark, though. And your next landmark is a boathouse with its sloping launch strip. Careful, here - those eight-man boats emerge head-high on your right from nowhere.

Up a small flight of concrete steps then avoid Barnes Bridge and turn right to run parallel to the railway embankment on your left towards the extra-posh Chiswick Racquets Club on your right. I jogged past an expensively-dressed woman on her way to the tennis courts smoking a fag this morning. What's she thinking?

First on the left takes you onto a single carriageway under a railway bridge. You may have to dodge some impatient 4x4s here before returning to the verge heading towards the Thames Tradesman's boat club. Nip through their car park and you're back on the riverbank.


This is the nicest stretch of the whole route. It's like running through a country meadow with the river on your left and fragrant, waist-high wild flowers on your right. You'll wish the path never ends but it does, at another boat house at the foot of majestic Chiswick Bridge. This is the base of the elite Tideway Scullers. Current members include Alan Campbell, the Ulsterman who won the silver medal in the men's single sculls at the World Rowing Cup at Eton Dorney this weekend. Here he is on his row of honour:




Jog up the steps of the bridge and cross the river. Jog down again on you're on your way back. That's The Ship on your right, there, another good place for an al fresco Sunday lunch overlooking the swarms of afternoon rowers. And that's the big old Budweiser brewery next to the cobbles. Horrible beer but keeps a lot of people in work. Don't knock it.

More cobbles test the ankles and knees until you get to The White Hart. Yet another good place to sit under a parasol with a pint of Young's and watch the world go by. Not today, though. On you go along the muddy bit under Barnes Bridge and on to the pavement. Fabulously big views of the sweeping bend of the river, here. Look out for more House Martins gathering mud for their nests on the edge.

The Thames at Barnes
Before you know it you're back on the trail, the river hidden by the trees on your left, the air full of birdsong from the Leg of Mutton nature reserve on your right. Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Great Tit, Willow Warbler - they're all fighting to be heard but not seen. Enjoy the summer warblers while you dodge the puddles - it's nearly always a bit damp on this stretch.


The lush scenery stays the same until you reach Westminster School boat club on the right. The only other landmark is a balloon-strewn shrine to some poor soul who presumably didn't make it out of the river one day.

A couple of strides letter and the glorious green and gold Hammersmith Bridge looms large in front of you again. Jog over, being prepared to slow down for fellow runners and pedestrians on the narrow, rickety walkway, and you've nearly made it. Officially you need to jog past the Dove again to make it 10k. Or you could sack it off and pop in the Blue Anchor for one instead.

You've earned it.

Monday, 20 June 2011

A 20-Mile North Norfolk Bird And Pub Crawl From Hunstanton To Stiffkey


View Hunstanton-Stiffkey in a larger map

Tried and tested on Saturday.
Required: A designated driver or a Coasthopper bus timetable.
Preferable: Fully Ventilated Drinking Trousers

Start: Hunstanton Beach
Begin the day with a stroll along the beach to look for nesting Fulmars. They're easy to find as soon as you reach the strikingly cream and orange cliffs. They're an awesome, big-nosed sight as they glide to and from the cliff face, their legs often dangling comically as they come in to land.


First Pub: The Ancient Mariner, Old Hunstanton
Nothing to fear here. The suitably-named Camra Beer Guide entrant is about a mile east along the beach from the Fulmars. Apart from the Adnams Suffolk Bitter, the hotel pub's best feature is the decked and lawned beer garden which gives great views of the windsurfers on the Wash.


Second Pub: The Lighthouse Inn, Thornham
A great patio garden with distant sea views to enjoy with the Wherry and guest ales is the highlight of this place a few miles along the coast road. Rated with slightly more detail on this earlier posting.

Next Bird Stop: RSPB Titchwell Marsh
Spotted Redshank at Titchwell
A five-star reserve with a high chance of spotting some of the most iconic Norfolk birds: Marsh Harrier, Avocet, Bearded Tit, Bittern and all the wetland specialities. A fabulous new hide half-way along the 1km path to the beach takes you right into the heart of the lagoons.



Third Pub: The Jolly Sailors, Brancaster
Jolly as sailors in Brancaster
Another short drive is rewarded with a refreshing pint of Brancaster Bitter and/or Oystercatcher brewed on the premises. It's got a spacious, grassy, swallow-blessed beer garden and a play area which attracts a nicely mixed crowd of rugby-types in pink weekend shirts and Jeremy Kyle-style parents urging Ryan and Kianna to "put it down, NOW!"

Fourth Pub: The White Horse, Brancaster Staithe
A couple of miles further east on the left is this posher pub with rooms. The bar serves Woodforde's Wherry and Adnams but the best bit is the terrace at the back with sensational views over the marshes to the distant sea, complete with Little Egrets, Redshanks and Oystercatchers.
The food is also excellent and very modern-British - my battered fish came with nine thick-cut chips stacked in a Jenga-style tower on the plate. Novel.

Time to press onwards to Wells-next-the-Sea but if you can't wait six more miles try the Victoria at Holkham on the way. It's a lovely hotel which recently tied itself to Adnams, so you know exactly what you'll be drinking. Nip into the Holkham Hall grounds up the hill to enjoy the House Martins, Swifts and Swallows hunting over the lake.

Next Stop: The Albatros, Wells
Big sky from the deck of the Albatros on Saturday
Not a pub but a moored, Dutch sailing boat with an S mysteriously missing from its name and very steep wooden steps down to a galley serving Woodforde's Wherry and Nelson's Revenge straight out of the barrel. Make it back up the stairs without spilling it and enjoy the view across the marshes with the option of a wide range of pancakes to soak it all up. Spinach, boiled egg and cheese is among the tastier options for £8. Standard lemon and sugar is half that.

At this point I recommend a detour to the De-Lish deli across the road on Staithe Street. Stock up on some of the tastiest cured meats and spiced fruits and chocolates this side of Ibiza.

Final Stop: The Red Lion, Stiffkey
A few miles further east and another difficult-to-drive-past landmark on the coast road. More Woodforde's choices and a cosy patio garden between the pub and the newish rooms for holiday rent. Very good value food if you fancy it.

And now you'd better call it day and head home for a well-earned snooze. Don't forget your binoculars.

Thursday, 9 June 2011

The Best Pubs and Restaurants in Norfolk: Reviewed And Rated With Birds

Poppies near Roydon Common

The Bridge Inn, Acle Bridge, Acle


Bird Equivalent: Sedge Warbler. An unspectacular but lively summer treat.
Overview: Large, traditional, family-friendly, riverside pub on the main road from the Broads to the coast.
Food Highlight: Excellent £8.95 ham salad featuring generous helpings of potato salad, pasta salad and  hand-carved glazed ham.
Beer: Woodforde's Wherry and Adnams Lighthouse - both well kept.
Service: Cold but efficient.
Bottom Line: £45.95 for four main courses and a round of drinks.

The Lifeboat Inn, Ship Lane, Thornham


Bird Equivalent: Avocet. An uplifting sight on the Norfolk coast.
Overview: Large, rambling village pub/hotel just off the main coastal road with a great outdoor patio garden and distant views of the sea.
Food Highlight: Reasonable bacon & cheese burgers with average chips and a little punnet of relish.
Beer: Woodforde's Wherry and guest ales
Service: Quick and friendly.
Bottom Line: £45.60 for four main courses and a couple of rounds of drinks.

The Kings Head, High Street, Holt


Bird Equivalent: Marsh Harrier. Soaring imperiously above all it surveys.
Overview: One of our favourite pubs. Great food and a great range of well-kept beer guaranteed in the centre of the bustling Georgian town.
Food Highlight: We sat in the lovely new conservatory and ate a deliciously well-done T-bone steak with a jacket potato, salad and onion rings.
Beer: Wherry to start then a bottle of Pinot Grigio.
Service: Not great on the night - it was only 7pm but they'd ran out of chicken and after a long wait chips were presented in a tiny metal basket instead of the ordered baked potato; spud delay resulted.
Bottom Line: £60.40 for two including the booze, a bottle of fizzy water and a latte.

The Crown Inn, East Rudham


Bird Equivalent: Great Crested Grebe. Serving freshly caught fish as a speciality.
Overview: Newly-modernised, chain-owned gastro pub in a village on the main road from Fakenham to Kings Lynn.
Food Highlight: An intricately and deliciously-cooked pollock which had to be unwrapped from its grease-proof paper jacket, served with biriani rice.
Service: Friendly, quick and efficient.
Beer: Adnams Bitter well kept.
Bottom Line: £23.45 for the fish, two pints and a coffee.

Chai-Yo, High Street, Sheringham


Bird Equivalent: Goldfinch. A colourful taste of the exotic amid the ordinary.
Overview: Traditional suburban Thai restaurant in the heart of the traditional seaside town.
Food Highlight: The sort of fresh, crisp, spicy food everyone has come to expect.
Service: Very friendly and efficient.
Wine: Nicely chilled bottle of Pinot Grigio.
Bottom Line: £71.55 for four starters, four main courses and the wine.

Taste of India, Holt


Bird Equivalent: Sandwich Tern. Deep breath, dive in, enjoy.
Overview: Another firm favourite, especially with the kids - traditional Indian food in a nicely modernised, cosy and very busy restaurant. Booking essential.
Food Highlight: The usual gravy-rich masalas, bhunas and tandooris and those frozen desserts that come in lemon peel and coconut shells.
Service: Clinically efficient.
Beer: Kingfisher lager on tap.
Bottom Line: £66.85 (including tip) for four starters and main courses with all the trimmings and a couple of beers.

The Fur and Feather Inn, Slad Lane, Woodbastwick


Bird Equivalent: Not a bird but a Swallowtail butterfly - a wonderful and exclusive Norfolk speciality.
Overview: Not just the best pub in Norfolk but probably the best pub in Britain. A classic thatched roof building in a picture-postcard Broads village. It serves every Woodforde's beer straight out of the barrel from the brewery next door.
Food Highlight: The beers
Service: You might have to wait patiently to get served at the bar but it's worth it.
Beer: Wherry, Admiral's Reserve, Nelson's Revenge, Norfolk Nog, Headcracker, Sundew, seasonal specials.
Bottom Line: worth every penny to sample the ales while Swallows swoop over the beer garden pond.

Three generations taking refreshments at the unrivalled Fur and Feather Inn